Upper Antelope Canyon

I had seen photographs so wanted to go, but not without apprehension. Tours of Antelope Canyon are led by guides from the Navajo Nation, on whose land the slot canyon is located near Page, AZ. I’m not one for tight spaces, nor do I much like deep dark caves, so we opted for the tour of Upper Antelope Canyon, which requires walking into vs. descending into the canyon (the Lower Antelope Canyon tour). A four-wheel drive vehicle delivered us along a dry riverbed to the mouth of the canyon, from where we were led into the stone maze in small groups. There are some tight spaces, too many people, and places where two persons passing must do so back to back. But the guides do a masterful job of moving crowds along, and are in touch with weather trackers to ensure a flash flood doesn’t come as a very unwanted surprise.

You can’t blame people for “stop dead in their tracks” stupefaction. I was one of them.  From the gathering location outside the entrance slot, it is impossible to imagine what’s ahead. In the second shot, look for the woman entering the canyon at the bottom of the photo to get a clue as to scale. The third photo, still outside the canyon, begins to introduce what’s coming. Then the real fun begins. Shots are taken leaning back and looking up into shafts of changing light; flood debris can occasionally be seen caught in crevices far above one’s head. Beautiful now…

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A Change of Pace

Lake Powell3May 14, 2016__160514Yes, this is still our Arizona-Utah National Parks trip (will it ever end, you ask? Not quite yet..!) We changed our pace for several days in Page, AZ, enjoying Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon National Recreation area. After the desert landscapes of Utah, it was impossible not to be captured by the water. We opted for a boat cruise into narrow, winding Antelope Canyon to see its red and orange Navajo sandstone formations, and got caught in the rain you see threatening us. Kayakers in the canyon were also pummeled, which seems to be a price one pays for adventuring on the lake. The afternoon cleared into a beauty of an evening. Lake Powell5May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell22May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell35May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell38May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell50May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell97May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell112May 14, 2016__160514

The West I Grew Up With

Moab-Powell_8_160513Growing up on the East Coast, the West I knew was brought to me by movies and television, which imprinted tall tales with wild scenery. The”deja vu” sensation surfaced the moment we entered the Navajo Nation Tribal Park, which crosses the Utah/Arizona state border. The area known as Monument Valley has been a favorite location for iconic westerns since director John Ford filmed “Stagecoach”there in 1939, and has continued to offer stunning backdrops for filmmakers and tourists alike. Are the monuments and earth colors purple? red? brown? orange? grey? green? Yes. We stopped often just to make sure we were seeing what we thought we were seeing.

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The Alchemy of Arches

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Arches National Park is certainly about the world’s largest concentration of sandstone arches, but it is about so much more. You can find lost civilizations here; magic created from formations that allow you to see worlds only your mind can conjure.  If you’ve time, stay long enough to go back into the park at night when the moon and stars appear to light these stone monuments, and you’ll believe in alchemy.

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The Beauty of Desolation

Canyonlands_35_160512Canyonlands National Park is a weirdly wonderful place. We visited only its northern district near the town of Moab, but read that it stretches into three other completely unique districts over a large portion of southeastern Utah. The park provided outstanding opportunities for both selfies and reflection (but not for us; those soft cliff edges and long drops deterred our participation). We just enjoyed looking at it (and them).

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The Colors of the Earth

Bry-Moab_1_160511If the glory of the national parks isn’t satisfying enough, driving through Utah between them might add a few more ingredients to your recipe. These were shot meandering between Bryce Canyon National Park and Moab, at a leisurely, completely gratifying pace.

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Hoodoo Land

Bryce_9_160510The amphitheater at Bryce Canyon National Park will take your breath away. The hoodoos, created from layers of soft and hard rock eroded by millenniums of freeze and thaw cycles, have been sculpted into fantasy shapes worthy of any story telling. The following Paiute Indian Legend is posted at the rim of the canyon:

Before there were any Indians, the Legend People, To-when-an-ung-wa, lived in that place. There were many of them. They were of many kinds – birds, animals, lizards, and such things – but they looked like people…For some reason, the Legend People in that place were bad. Because they were bad, Coyote turned them all into rocks. You can see them in that place now, all turned into rocks; some standing in rows, some sitting down, some holding on to others. You can see their faces, with paint on them just as they were before they became rocks…

You can imagine anything here. You can see people, castles, armies lined up in formations, choirs of angels, and creatures that may crumble to sand with the next rain. It is possible to walk down into the canyon (the walk back up is considerably more challenging…) and the canyon edges that simply disappear in front of you will help remind you of the fragility of this astonishing landscape. It’s all a wonder.

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The Trail to the Hoodoos

The driving distance from Zion National Park to Bryce Canyon National Park is only 72 miles, but what a difference an hour makes! Bryce is at higher elevation than Zion so it’s colder, and its frost and thaw patterns have created a fairyland of hoodoos, those fascinating spires of rock that stir the imagination. As one transitions from the gorgeous countryside outside of Zion into the first red rock canyons near Bryce, the trail to the hoodoos announces itself quite dramatically.Zion-Bry_149_SBH_160510_MEZion-Bry_6_160510Zion-Bry_151_SBH_160510_MEZion-Bry_14_160510Zion-Bry_17_160510

Zion

SBHc - 95.jpgWhether you choose to define Zion as a heavenly place or a refuge, you’re right. Emerging from the tunnel on the east side of this vast park, you are met with the above introduction to Zion Canyon; the distant road seen at the bottom of the photo leads you there. Every moment spent in this incredible place offers grandeur, color, drama, serenity and wonder, and the opportunity to engage with nature beyond imagination. We barely touched the park’s offerings, and daily blessed those who had the foresight, political will and determination to establish and ensure protection of this national treasure for all of us.SBHc - 88SBHc - 128.jpgMay 9, 2016_126_SBH_160509_MESBHc - 48SBHc - 159

Zion just around the bend…

We approached Zion National Park from its east side, traveling west from Mt. Carmel Junction, on SR 9. “Scenic” isn’t a fair description of the drive; “jaw-dropping” suits me better. Once reaching the park entrance, an additional 12 miles on beautifully paved red roads delivered us to the heart of the park, through land so indescribably foreign I could have considered myself misplaced to Mars. Watching skies that offered both threatening and gorgeous weather, switchbacks led us to higher elevations past rock formations of sculptured sand, and finally (after so many “what’s next?” moments) a mile long tunnel spilled us out into Zion Canyon. Zion Park was just around the bend…SBHc - 71SBHc - 198Zion_124_SBH_160522_MEZion_122_SBH_160522_MESBHi - 20SBHi - 34SBHc - 72