We Began in Berlin…

I had been to Berlin in 1966 and wanted to see it again. At that time, I was on a bus with college friends that went through the wall at Checkpoint Charlie and into the eastern sector for a quick drive through, and remember it as grim and grey and very sad. I knew it had changed since the wall fell in 1989, and, with the exception of the Brandenburg Gate, of course I found it unrecognizable. There’s a McDonald’s across the street from Checkpoint Charlie for starters.

Berlin is still under construction and reconstruction. For a city that was 70% destroyed in the Second World War, it has attempted (successfully in my opinion) to hold on to what it could, and design a city for the future in spaces that couldn’t be reclaimed. There are memorials to history which are not hidden, dated Soviet construction that is being reinvigorated, and many imaginative light-filled new buildings that spark a sense of excitement. Remnants of the wall remain as well, with sections marked by steel poles flanking buildings with photos of “then” as compared to what the visitor sees now. The open air East Side Gallery was painted on sections of the wall by artists in the 1990s as a memorial for freedom, although many of the original works are now gone or have been modified. It is still colorful and interesting to see.

I liked Berlin.

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Who Do You Trust

It’s a question to take seriously, and I found my answers troubling. My favorite pundit and “truth seeker”, David Brooks, spoke about trust (and lack thereof) in a recent interview. He expressed concern (if my interpretation is correct) about the general lack of trust that seems to be spreading across our culture and the corrosive negativity dripping into our collective psyche from that lack of trust. Who do you trust, and why?

Brooks seems to believe that trust is necessary for a society to successfully function and grow, and that trust most easily finds a foothold at the community level, from connections such as those with which we used to be more familiar, when we lived in closer contact with more personal interactions. I remember having a professional relationship with a banker, for example, and we knew one another by name. Now I feel as though I become more invisible by day, in every way. Is this an undercurrent of the societal upheaval we seem to be experiencing, I wonder? Lack of trust?

I had an interesting adventure this past month, in keeping with this subject. We went on a tour, on a bus, with 30 strangers from 6 countries. All had chosen to change from usual pursuits and tolerate one another for a period of time for different reasons. On a tour, for a minimum of 14 days, there’s little getting away from one another. Cultures were expressed among us in different ways. We were completely at the mercy of two strangers in particular: the tour director who set our requirements, and the coach driver who was challenged by hazardous driving conditions daily. The entire experience required trust.

The start of a tour, in our experience, is wary, and fraught with unsettling first impressions. It’s like the start of summer camp, or jury duty. Group standards have to be established and managed (which is the responsibility of the tour director), but participants have to buy into the program. There is peer pressure for accountability and responsibility. Interaction is forced immediately, ready or not.

As information replaces uncertainty, and experience rises to expectations, we begin to relax. Facades fade, we start to exchange stories from our own cultural experiences, while new shared events subtly create group cohesion. It’s a powerful dynamic to witness, as “me” morphs into “we”.

On tour we listen, we are respectful, we compromise, we learn that our way is not the only way, nor the best way, and we are reminded to laugh. We find that everything doesn’t go as we might wish, and that we need to be prepared for changing conditions. We experience tedious times between dramatic times. We find it’s not important to be first in line. We actually develop a small community among complete strangers, committed to the common goal of a pleasant experience, nurtured by trust and support.

What does it take to earn trust, and what do you have to do participate in developing it? It’s a much harder question to answer at home than on tour, but I’m grateful that our tour reminded me of how trust feels, and it’s value.

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The Grand Finale

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Here at last. The Grand Canyon. There were many more people on the South Rim than anywhere else we visited during our entire journey (a large percentage of whom were foreign visitors), but the National Park Service does an outstanding job of managing both this enormous land mass and those who come to see it. We applauded the Rangers and other staff often for their friendly helpfulness, and thought park lodging and food services were amazing in light of the high traffic and turnover demands placed on them.

As was the case in all the parks we visited, all one had to do was wait a minute for the scene to change its color and mood. It is grand indeed.

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Can’t tell from here…

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Near Lake Powell, there is a gash in the earth about a mile down the hill that draws visitors to it. On reaching the rim, it’s completely understandable. There are many gorgeous photographs on the web of the Colorado River’s entire Horseshoe Bend, but I wasn’t going to stand any closer to the edge to capture it. This will have to do.Lake Powell Area_5_160515Horseshoe

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Upper Antelope Canyon

I had seen photographs so wanted to go, but not without apprehension. Tours of Antelope Canyon are led by guides from the Navajo Nation, on whose land the slot canyon is located near Page, AZ. I’m not one for tight spaces, nor do I much like deep dark caves, so we opted for the tour of Upper Antelope Canyon, which requires walking into vs. descending into the canyon (the Lower Antelope Canyon tour). A four-wheel drive vehicle delivered us along a dry riverbed to the mouth of the canyon, from where we were led into the stone maze in small groups. There are some tight spaces, too many people, and places where two persons passing must do so back to back. But the guides do a masterful job of moving crowds along, and are in touch with weather trackers to ensure a flash flood doesn’t come as a very unwanted surprise.

You can’t blame people for “stop dead in their tracks” stupefaction. I was one of them.  From the gathering location outside the entrance slot, it is impossible to imagine what’s ahead. In the second shot, look for the woman entering the canyon at the bottom of the photo to get a clue as to scale. The third photo, still outside the canyon, begins to introduce what’s coming. Then the real fun begins. Shots are taken leaning back and looking up into shafts of changing light; flood debris can occasionally be seen caught in crevices far above one’s head. Beautiful now…

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A Change of Pace

Lake Powell3May 14, 2016__160514Yes, this is still our Arizona-Utah National Parks trip (will it ever end, you ask? Not quite yet..!) We changed our pace for several days in Page, AZ, enjoying Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon National Recreation area. After the desert landscapes of Utah, it was impossible not to be captured by the water. We opted for a boat cruise into narrow, winding Antelope Canyon to see its red and orange Navajo sandstone formations, and got caught in the rain you see threatening us. Kayakers in the canyon were also pummeled, which seems to be a price one pays for adventuring on the lake. The afternoon cleared into a beauty of an evening. Lake Powell5May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell22May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell35May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell38May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell50May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell97May 14, 2016__160514Lake Powell112May 14, 2016__160514

The West I Grew Up With

Moab-Powell_8_160513Growing up on the East Coast, the West I knew was brought to me by movies and television, which imprinted tall tales with wild scenery. The”deja vu” sensation surfaced the moment we entered the Navajo Nation Tribal Park, which crosses the Utah/Arizona state border. The area known as Monument Valley has been a favorite location for iconic westerns since director John Ford filmed “Stagecoach”there in 1939, and has continued to offer stunning backdrops for filmmakers and tourists alike. Are the monuments and earth colors purple? red? brown? orange? grey? green? Yes. We stopped often just to make sure we were seeing what we thought we were seeing.

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