A Capital City

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With a backdrop of the lovely Royal Palace at the top of the hill, Oslo sets its stage for a very good show. Whether looking for a busy seaport, traditional or contemporary architecture, tree-lined promenades, culture (the national theater and new waterfront opera house with a floating stage), museums (the Viking Ship Museum with preserved ships and artifacts dating from 800 A.D. is particularly interesting), the outstanding and controversial Vigeland sculptures at beautiful Frogner Park, busy sidewalk cafes and flowers lining every street, you’ll find it in Oslo. While laying claim to having become the most expensive city in the world recently, Oslo can also lay claim to being a capital city. It’s great, and a wonderful place to end our Scandinavian journey.

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Cold without Snow

norway-760We left the land of fjords, and passed by deep valleys and waterfalls as we drove south to Bergen, a charming city on the western coast, and the rainiest in Norway. I include proof. The long drive to Oslo followed, through high plateaus of harsh, windy, barren land, and the only part of the country we saw where I was sure I could not live. It was cold even without the deep snow due very soon.

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A Preview of Coming Attractions

norway_375_160826We drove into Norway, heading for Lillehammer, on a rainy morning. After the beauty and lovely weather we’d experienced in Denmark and Sweden, our spirits were dampened…until incredible natural wonders began to reveal themselves in the fog and mist. Who knew glacier water could be so stunningly turquoise?! All I could do was try to brace my camera, and shoot and shoot and shoot through rain streaked windows. I literally took several thousand photos during these final tour days, and have weeks of sorting to do before you’ll see more from me of this incredible country. Sorry.norway_374_160826

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Stockholm and Beyond

Sweden didn’t get our fair share of attention, but such is the case on tours when there is too much to see, and too little time. In Stockholm, the Vasa Galleon museum was an outstanding place to spend a few hours; it’s one of Sweden’s worst and best stories. The galleon, carrying 64 cannon and 300 men, sunk in Stockholm’s harbor a few minutes into its maiden voyage in 1628, and remained on the seabed until successfully raised in 1961. The galleon model is shown emblazoned in full color as it would have been on sailing day, and the actual ship, almost wholly preserved along with its sculptures and ornaments, is an amazing sight.

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That wonderful country offered us other treasures as well. The tiny town of Sigtuna, once a Viking capital, now has Sweden’s smallest City Hall, and the cutest library I’ve ever seen.

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Uppsala, which is home to Scandinavia’s oldest university, has an astounding cathedral where Swedish kings were crowned.

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The village of Nusnas produces the Dala horse. First carved as toys during long winter nights and decorated in the familiar Swedish red color paint-pigment from copper mines, they became so popular as to become the unofficial symbol of Sweden. Still hand carved and painted as cottage industries, towns are known for their colors and styles of horses and animals. What child or adult could possibly resist them!

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On to Sweden

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The long drive from Copenhagen to Stockholm isn’t remotely boring; it’s bucolic. The rolling hills and farmlands introduce a landscape of forests and lush green fields, dotted by barns and homesteads painted in Sweden’s iconic red color. And then Stockholm appears, with one of the prettiest Old Towns imaginable. It has some of the narrowest streets in the world, which open to colorful plazas or lead to waterfront parks. If one is bored with natural beauty (really?), visiting City Hall with its gold room covered by 25 million gilded mosaic tiles should inspire wonder; it’s the site of the annual Nobel Prize presentation banquet. Perhaps an evening boat trip to a lovely dinner location out-of-town will be on your schedule as it was ours; sunset in Stockholm is a very special memory.

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Travel Interlude

NOTE TO READER: Do not be alarmed…this is a generic post.

I was disturbed to read that a recent poll indicated only a small percentage of millennials intended to watch the political debates. I imagine a large number of other adults have no plans to do so either.

I get it. Hate him/her; can’t take another minute of this campaign. Make it go away.

From our travels, I can tell you that citizens of other parts of the world are worried for us and about us, and as a consequence, for themselves. They want clarification about what’s happening in America. Me too.

The New York Times on line helped me focus yesterday by listing 15 questions that the editorial board and others proposed as important issues for the candidates’ attention. Here they are:

What would you do to reduce the extreme income inequality in this country?
Health insurance premiums and out of pocket costs are rising rapidly. What would you do to control them?
What evidence-backed measures should be taken to improve the public school experience for every child?
Where has American policy on Syria failed? Should something be done militarily to stop the slaughter?
What specific actions or tactics will you use to fight the Islamic State that the Obama administration hasn’t already tried?
What should be done to strengthen the Social Security system so it can keep supporting retirees now and in the future?
How will you minimize the domestic threat of home-grown terrorists?
It is widely accepted scientific fact that climate change is real and potentially catastrophic. What specific action will you take in the next four years?
Sanctions and global condemnation haven’t deterred North Korea’s nuclear ambitions. What would you do?
Where would you set the limits on surveillance by the U.S. government?
The racial divide on policing and politics seems wider than ever. How could the next president help turn this around?
How do you plan to get money out of politics?
There are 43 million people living in poverty in this country. What will you do about this?
What would your administration do to reduce gun violence and mass shootings?
What are three important initiatives you could accomplish despite Congressional gridlock?

There is serious business on America’s plate. I think we all deserve thoughtful responses to these questions, and hope the debates provide the forum for changing the tenor of this campaign from rancor to reason.

Denmark Beyond its Capital

There is much to Denmark beyond Copenhagen, and short excursions from the capital brought us an even greater appreciation of its charms. Whether you’re looking for fishing villages with cobbled streets lined with hollyhocks beside thatched roof cottages, or castles such as Fredriksborg (which houses the Danish National Museum) or churches such as Roskilde Cathedral, (a UNESCO World Heritage site in which the remains of 39 kings and queens are buried), Denmark can offer them all. The country absolutely deserves its reputation for beauty and enviable high standard of living.

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Charming, Cool Copenhagen

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Denmark’s capital city is a wonderful mix of old and edgy. It’s location on an island creates a city of extremely accessible canals, waterfront parks and beaches. Boating, biking and walking are far and away the most convenient and pleasurable means of transportation in an area which takes prides in its high environmental standards (it aims for carbon-neutrality by 2025!) Copenhagen has ranked high in all surveys for “livability” and its citizens claim to be the happiest on earth, in spite of high taxes and general cost of living. It’s pretty, its old architecture is charming, it’s new architecture is exciting (the Opera House is spectacular), Tivoli amusement park and gardens, which opened in 1843 in the center of the city, is a delight, and the city is absolutely cutting edge for cultural and social issues. I completely get it.

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