I’d like to tell you this is about my own mark, but it isn’t. I’m referring to the Waltons of Bentonville, Arkansas, who have done more than their share to leave lasting legacies for the rest of us. Perhaps you don’t know much about Bentonville; it’s a lovely small town which sits in the northwest corner of Arkansas near the Missouri and Oklahoma borders, with a resident population short of 50,000. The patriarch of the Walton family purchased a five and dime store there in 1950, developed Wal-Mart into the world’s largest retailer, and created unimaginable economic impact locally and worldwide. In 2011, daughter Alice made her own mark by creating the stunning Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Bentonville to house her outstanding and eclectic personal art collection, and host other temporary exhibits and special events there. Our visit included “Chihuly: in the Forest”, an installation of Dale Chihuly’s dramatic art glass along the paths of the Ozark forest museum grounds.
Bentonville is not all that easy to get to, but it’s worth the trip.
We chose to visit Yosemite after Labor Day, hoping to miss heavy summer traffic. I assume we did that, but it’s hard to know; it seemed packed to us. There is shuttle bus service in Yosemite Valley to ease congestion issues, without which one can imagine total gridlock. September brought other issues with it as well: there was record-breaking heat, vistas were smokey, fires blocked access to Glacier Point Road, water in streams and waterfalls diminish in the fall, and there were bugs. Lots and lots of bugs. I’m sure that visitors who hike into back country have a much richer experience of the park than we did, and probably even see more wildlife than the mule deer who walked unperturbed past photographers (look closely…).
Nonetheless, we felt like we didn’t miss a thing. We saw classic Yosemite, beginning with the Valley floor which sits beneath the granite cliffs of El Capitan and Half Dome. We visited Inspiration Point four times, but were able to see Bridalveil Fall from that location only once. Didn’t matter; it’s all still gorgeous, and early in the morning, before the hordes descended, was best.
The Majestic Yosemite
When arriving into Yosemite National Park through the Arch Rock Entrance on El Portal Road, one is not sure what to expect. There were hints of grandeur along the way, but we were arriving at dusk and wanted to get to our hotel, saving the park overview for later.
We had booked the necessary “near to a year” in advance for The Majestic Yosemite Hotel, formerly known as the Ahwahnee, (the name given to Yosemite Valley by the Ahwahneechee people, its first residents. At present there is a trademark dispute over the name, which sort of explains the new Majestic identification.) First opened in 1927, it is thought to be the National Park system’s premiere hotel, not close to our usual choice for sleeping space, but it was our anniversary. Good excuse.
The hotel sits at the base of granite cliffs, and as large as it seems, it is small in relation to its surroundings. If you can force yourself to leave the dining room or patio, a walk to the river is a wonderful way to start the morning.
The anticipated 4 hour drive from Sequoia National Park to the south entrance of Yosemite National Park was nearly doubled by detours caused by fires. We had booked several nights in the southernmost part of Yosemite, anticipating park excursions from that location, but were thwarted by fires, and restorations in the sequoia groves which closed them to visitors. As is often the case, initial disappointment turned to its own kind of pleasure.
Big Trees Lodge, known until 2016 as The Wawona Hotel, is a National Historic Landmark, and is loaded with Victorian-style charm. The cottage complex where we stayed was built in 1876-77, and retains the big porches and large lawns that encourage lounging without agenda. Fires had been raging for several week quite close to the nearby town of Wawona, and we could smell the burn and see pink-tinged skies. At night, very tired firefighters came to the hotel to eat quickly, sleep lightly and rise early to refuel their trucks at the bottom of the driveway. There were signs of appreciation for their efforts in nearly every yard in town, acknowledging them as the heroes they are.
We spent our last morning there walking to The Pioneer Yosemite History Center, constructed as a small frontier town. The smokey morning mist provided a lovely setting for imagining frontier life as extremely pleasant, unlike its certain reality.
I like to walk in the woods and think they are all lovely, but they are certainly not all the same. Sequoia National Park is a prize, created in 1890 as America’s second oldest national park, to protect the area from logging. Thank you Congress.
I thought I had seen sequoias before, but I hadn’t; I’d seen redwoods. Redwoods are found in their natural habitat along the Pacific Coast, while sequoias grow naturally only on the west side of California’s Sierra Nevada range, usually in elevations of 5000-7000 feet, per the National Park Service brochure. There are other differences as well, but to me the massive trunk of the sequoia, with its roots visibly branching out from its base, is their most obvious identifying feature. There are other tree species that are taller and live longer, but in total wood volume the giant sequoia is the world’s largest living tree. It is impossible to appreciate their size without standing next to them. They are amazingly impervious to most insects and fungi and their thick bark saves them from most fire damage. The main cause of their demise is a shallow root system, which makes them susceptible to toppling.
A walk in a sequoia grove is a conjuration of the supernatural and immersion in a magic spell.
I can’t say I’ve spent much time on many islands, but the one I have remains my “go to” for an infusion of natural beauty and pleasure. Rather than the usual post of “here’s the water, here’s an old building, here’s the storm”, I’ve played with Snapseed and changed the scenery. I still love the place.